Caucasian Forum: A Black Sea tour: Sukhum
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posted by circassiankama on July, 2010 as ANALYSIS / OPINION
Wednesday, July 21, 2010 22:26
We got our first job Suhum'a visa formalities are to handle. Edited by Abkhazian authorities have shown that our invitation and visa fees paid at a bank in the city after we went to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. In ten minutes the same as in Nagorno-Karabakh as a separate paper, processed our visa was ready. Nagorno-Karabakh, Abkhazia was similar to the input-output, your passport does not leave any trace, but the visa had to be shown the way out.
Approximately 80 thousand to 200 thousand people live Suhum'da in Abkhazia. Sukhum, consisting of regular positions in an ancient Russian city, a tourist resort in the time of Czarist Russia had become an old castle. Suhum'da 19 century buildings, structures, and classical Stalinist Communist apartment blocks in the cock-a sub-tropical vegetation has an interesting mix. The old buildings have been restored at the edge of the beach, but mostly the front Suhum'un lead was turned into a case by screens. Hills, cypress trees, palm, sycamore, and lined with tropical vines. Very narrow and pebbly beaches of the port in the entire city stretches along the right and left.
Suhum'un modern part, consisting of a long and cramped buildings, a Georgian-Abkhazian conflict in the most heavily damaged neighborhood. This district in the north suburb of the city with the Georgian and Abkhaz forces, which mark the frontier between the former located on the edge of the river is Gumur. All non-sealed windows and doors, but found a lot of empty apartments. Almost every building lost their lives during the conflicts in the names of residents who have memories of preparing for the plate.Anaid, Abhazya'nin one of two independent weekly newspaper run by a journalist. Four-page newspaper ad is running, and only 1000 copies were printed with leaves. Anaid outside the editorial staff with a temporary work consisting of editorial director. No one outside of their newspaper or magazine, because they are only two printers. Until last year, all the Abkhaz newspaper was printed in a printing press. The printing press was shut down just before the presidential election. Thus, two independent newspapers onlinein PDF format on the running started. Another thing we learned for ourselves that Abkhazia does not work, even in the mailer. Suhum'daki can send a postcard mailer, according to box-office officials told us of going to Sochi, where all the letters are arranged according to the recipient's address.Anaid, not overpower it was not an issue but it is also not possible to reach any of the information says. Even journalists who work for the government, information about access to the official decree, although the information about the company or the public access to details of particular contracts is not possible. Anaid'in newspaper, the National Bank executives have said that the son of a Russian resort region on the border wanted to investigate the status of the only bank Gagra'daki. This article about the situation did not respond were sent twice to the National Bank does not supply the information, whether the case had won. National Bank of slandering them on the grounds, but they have won its lawsuit.Anaid'in highly critical stance against the government, despite his views on relations with Georgia, in parallel with the government. To travel to Georgia for fear that his life is not. Moreover, Anaid with a secret society, and therefore the figure could be in trouble, as well as the perception of the visit to deal with the enemy by causing great damage to the image.Sukhum, the conflict zone in a region surrounded by the atmosphere is far from a cheerful and colorful city. The majority of beaches in the south of the port, the Moscow army regiment, part of which belongs to Sukhum Sanatorium. After paying the entrance fee, you can get in through a military checkpoint. At the entrance, guests are surrounded by palm trees which are covered by portraits of Lenin mosaic. Covered with camouflage nets with a team that is protected by dozens of tanks oriel (large tents) and two high-rise buildings, with their families to vacation together with the Russian officer has been assigned. Terrace overlooking the beach for fun in the camp's residents.When the evening approached, the atmosphere is warming up quickly. These evenings, original songs should be sung by DJ. Because this is still a place of rest is allowed only until midnight to music. So everyone is looking at this job now: being filled local wine, whiskey bottles on the tables brought from home is open, the officers and their spouses are invited to dance and everyone soon finds himself on the dance floor. While each song is dedicated to art, dance, those who are into raptures. The culminating point, dressed in white, by stretching a heavy soldier's wife, in the middle of the crowd by waving his arms in the air, high and shrill voice can be reached appears. This stage, accompanied by cries of Baptist churches in the Halleluya feel like a ritual: a woman enters into a trance, the priest played by the music in the background. Shortly after the music is distributed and the party is shutting down.Our way home, in an open-air disco, symbolic of the idea of war with all the mobility we have the privilege of seeing. Boys like gradually cut short black hair that, on the medal and the silver star-laden knee ranging from a lingerie wearing, a little before we see the Russian soldiers easily ground to bulk, a woman in the terraces of the mid-headed. Remove from the table as a group of teenagers sat for a while. Then, with waitresses who want to serve him a noisy entrance was discussed. Bodyguard'ı and complained to the manager of the space is going to report every two men listened to him obediently. All eyes had surrounded him. Then, turning to music DJ'ye forced to change into the new order of things and guided back to the table to sip a drink in peace. What if, after twenty minutes, hours would be the midnight showing off the veranda. Ultimately, this woman named Esma Arşba and Abkhaz veterans learned as a symbol of resistance. According to local legend had fought in the war in 1992 and a tank with two Georgian military that it could miss the extensive number of engagements for the deed and had badges.July 15, Thursday, 2010, Sukhum, AbkhaziaAuthor: Stefan Candea Photos: Petrut Calinescu Source:Around the Black Sea
Translation: Shumaf Sencer
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